2nd Oct (Sat) - Verona

Verona, an unlikely stop. Or should I say, it's being over glamorized or romanticized by movies. The comment that I had generally gotten from other fellow backpackers, prior to my arrival in Verona, was that "it's dirty". At first, I was confounded by their comment - what do they mean? When I got here, I finally understood. Or more or less. But it doesn't mean that I agree with them on that comment. In fact, I felt there's a hidden charm in Verona and it's difficult to unveil it and experience it unless you interact with the locals.

On the surface, Verona's a really old town and it would seem like the grey population dominated the place. It lacked of that vitality, that buzz that places like Rome or Venice would have. If we really nail down the really interesting attractions, it's possible that only Juliet's balcony and the Arena would pop into mind, and the rest would be a blank.

But I've been fortunate enough to have met and observed the locals. They really made the difference to my stay and my perspective on this town.

When I first arrived, I took the bus that the B&B had listed. But I had missed my stop unknowingly and had to ask the lady beside me for help. Although I couldn't understand her because of language barrier, she clearly understood my distress and helped redirected me to the bus driver. Same case. He tried explaining and finally managed to wrangle out a few Eng words - "opp. 31, 32". He looked really sincere and apologetic at the same time. And I was really grateful for his effort and help.

Got on the bus and got off at the right stop but couldn't make out the road direction. So while I was standing there, looking lost, an old lady who had just crossed the road, made her way back again with her walking cane, just to ask me in Italian on where I'm heading to (or so I assumed). I showed her my google map print out, with the address, and she started pointing to the other side of the road and started explaining in Italian. So although I didn't understand what she was saying, I tried to make sense of her gesturing. After copying her gesturing and repeat in English, she smiled and we seemed to have a mutual understanding on the direction, finally. And as I thanked her, she gradually made her way across the road again and continue on with her journey.

Having past the initial directions, I got lost at another junction again. At a nearby bus stop, there's a young and an old lady who seemed like total strangers. I approached the younger lady thinking there was a higher chance of her knowing a bit of English. She did. But she didn't know the way so she consulted the old lady. And then I finally reached the B&B Veronetta.





The owner was very nice and helpful too. The house felt really cozy and i had a feeling that this was what retirement should feel like. It's hard to put it into words but it just felt that time seemed to have stilled for me and i didn't have to do much things. I just need to simply pause and observe the action around me instead. It could be as simple as watching the bees stop by the plants to gather pollen, listening to oldies while sipping my tea or just watching the crowd rush by underneath my balcony. Simply be at peace.

I'd handmade spaghetti with minced donkey meat at a local eatery too. Although the people in the local eateries (away from the touristy areas) had little English-speaking skills, you could tell that they would really try to reciprocate your effort in trying to communicate with them. It was really nice of them.



And what's also nice was that most of these local eateries have their own base of usual customers. And the latter could either just be dropping by for a quick hi or chat. The atmosphere just felt so cozy and friendly. Just so natural.

The only grievances that I have were:

1) the local eateries were open only from 12 to 3pm, and 7 to 10pm. Unlike the touristy ones that are opened throughout.

2) missed the chance to catch the opera musical at the Arena. But had heard their rehearsal from the outside and was wowed by the vocals.



3) Juliet's balcony - no big deal





4) don't know there was a regional day train from Verona to Vienna. Could have saved myself the hassle, cost and discomfort



Now bk to the owner of the B&B, upon hearing my uncertainty to walk through the back lanes late at night to get to the train station, he volunteered to escort me to the bus stop and even asked the driver to keep a look out for me and where I should be alighting. And knowing that I would be on a long night train, he insisted that I accept a bottle of lemon tea, in case. He would have given me some snack as well but it was rather last minute so he didn't have any on hand. It was just so sweet of him to be so considerate :)

Although others may have found Verona "dirty", but I just think that they just didn't have a chance to uncover the charm, which lies in its people.

And here are some pix from around the city: